Ever notice that when you pull the clutch in your bike still tries to keep going? Already adjusted the cable, but still have the same results? Checked ever external component, yet for some reason she tries to power you through those technical, clutch feathering trails? Well, I’m sorry to inform you but its time to throw some money at the problem. You have got yourself a worn clutch basket.

You may not even know what I’m talking about, but don’t worry because we are here to help you get through this tough time in your life and get your bike back and running. First off, you will need to purchase a new clutch basket. Some people prefer OEM, but for half the price you can get a performance racing basket such as Magnum, Vortex, or Hinson. I picked up a brand new Vortex basket off eBay for only $150. Also you should replace the clutch cover gasket. This is a $5 gasket that you can pick up from your dealer.

Now you have one choice to make. Do you want to replace the clutch disks with the basket or not? It is recommended by almost all manufacturers that you replace the clutch disks when you replace the basket. Clutch disk kits which include new springs go for about $100 on eBay. I picked myself up a Barnett pressure plate kit and high pressure springs for $103. Once you have made the decision its time to start taking parts off.

Start off by draining your oil. Never reuse oil, always replace it with fresh. Also with an only change, you 4 strokers should change the filter also. Once the oil has been drained, remove the clutch cover.

You will see 5 bolts which need to be removed. Inside the bolt hole will be a clutch spring. Take these out also. Pull the outer plate off of the basket and start removing the clutch disks. If you plan to reuse them keep them in order because changing the wear patterns can cause vibration and loss of grip.

Next you will need to remove the clutch basket nut. You somehow need to hold the inner basket in place while you remove the bolt. You can either take it to the shop and get it done for $20 or the Mototip’s way. This method only works if you are not going to reuse the clutch disks. To make your own inner hub holder tool, gather up all the steel plates that you removed from the basket.

You are now going to need a drill and about a 3/16” drill bit. If you do not feel confident keeping all the teeth aligned then just use one plate. However too ensure no damage is done to the inner hub, I would suggest using multiple plates. The objective here is to make sure all the teeth on the stack of plates are lined up perfectly. Then drill 4 – 6 holes through the stack of plates all the way around.

Make sure that the teeth are still lined up after each hole and place a bolt in each drilled hole before you drill the next. Now find yourself a random piece of metal and form it into a “Z” shape.

One end should be able to bolt up to the stack of the plates and the other is the handle side which can be made however long you need. Bolt the handle to the stack with at least 2 nice sized bolts.

Sorry, I know this is a little confusing, but you will see what I mean and will save lots of cash. This tool can also be made by welding all of these plates together which is what I did.

It takes a lot less effort to weld things. Now that you have got your tool, slip it over the inner hub and have a helper hold the tool. Now get yourself a big breaking bar and get on that bolt hard. They usually have somewhere from 60 to 80 ft/lbs. the threads are regular right hand. Now pull off the inner hub and basket, noting the location of any washers.

Once you have the basket in hand its time to remove all the gears and place them on your new basket. Both 2 and 4 strokes have a big gear and a small gear. The big is usually held on by a plate of steel riveted to the basket. These rivets will need to be drilled out or ground flush with the plate of steel. Once the rivets are removed, pry off the piece of steel and remove the gear.

Next you need to remove the smaller gear. This gear is usually just pressed into the basket. Start off by finding a socket or pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the gear. Set it on the gear and place the basket somewhere where it is supported by the basket and not the gear, usually and open vice works quite well. Hammer the gear out by hitting the socket.

Now put that gear in the freezer. Reassemble the big gear setup on the new basket; you are lucky now because all you have to do is bolt the plate on that holds this gear. Once the gear in the freezer is cold, remove it. Blow torch around where the gear goes into the basket until it is too hot to touch. Set the gear on the basket with the teeth lined up with the slots for the teeth. Hammer it into place with the socket and your good to go. Tighten the clutch hub nut to around 72 ft/lbs.

Make sure that your new clutch disks have been soaked in oil for at least 4 hours. Note how there are 2 disks in the set that are colored differently than the others. These 2 go at the start and end of the set of disks. When placing the disks in, start with the different colored one, then a steel plate that you have rubbed a little oil on then a regularly colored disk and the another steel plate with oil.

Alternate this pattern and finish with the other differently colored one. Place the outer plate on and insert springs and tighten the bolts to around 84 in/lbs. make sure you have used all the parts you took out and if you’re good, place the new gasket on the clutch cover and tighten the bolts securely. There you go, a new clutch basket for an extra cheap price!

Note: when you start and ride your bike the first few times the clutch will appear to be sticking still, but this is only caused from the new disks and springs and will go away one everything has worn in.