On anybody’s list of the ten most scenic rides in the United States, right up there with California’s Pacific Coast Highway and Montana’s Going to the Sun Highway, you will find the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive. These two roads blend together to offer nearly 600 miles of some of the best motorcycle touring in the eastern part of the country.
Last summer I had my most recent opportunity to enjoy Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge while traveling south from New York to Mississippi. I had not been on an extended road trip in quite awhile, and the prospect of cruising along these highways through the green ramparts of the Appalachians, the Black Mountains and the Great Smokies made this journey particularly attractive.
My trip started at sunrise on a clear, bright morning in June. I was pleased to get clear of Long Island, head west across the George Washington Bridge into New Jersey and pick up Route 80 without a hitch. Anyone who rides in the New York metropolitan area knows that a jackknifed trailer, car fire, multi-car collision or even a flock of geese crossing the Long Island Expressway can bring traffic to a standstill at any hour, day or night. I did not want any surprises or mishaps to ruin my early morning escape.
By 6:30 a.m. I had crossed the Delaware River in western New Jersey and entered Pennsylvania. With the anxiety of rush hour traffic well behind and the open road ahead, I really felt as if my trip had begun. Midway through Pennsylvania, I pulled into a scenic overlook to stretch my legs and take a swig from my water bottle. I also drank in the view across a vast expanse of forested mountains, bright in the morning sun. I was so happy to be on the road again.
From Route 80 west I linked up with Route 81 south to Route 340 in Front Royal, Virginia, which led me to the top end of Skyline Drive. The weather had been pleasant all day. However, when I entered Shenandoah National Park, a ranger informed me that portions of the road ahead were quite foggy. I continued on, regardless.
Heading into the fog.
Shenandoah National Park lies in one of the most beautiful regions of the East. It extends approximately 80 miles along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains from Front Royal in the north to near Waynesboro in the south. Shenandoah Skyline Drive is about 105 miles long. Along its entire length, turnouts and overlooks offer great views — eastward to the Piedmont and westward across the Shenandoah Valley to the Alleghenies.
Unfortunately, I missed most of this scenery because, after traveling about 20 miles along Skyline Drive, fog enveloped the road. I was lucky to see the white lines.
While there was virtually no traffic, I turned on my four-way flashers to make me more visible – especially to drivers approaching from behind. I was only going about 25 to 30 miles per hour and was afraid I would get rear-ended. I also blew my horn continually to frighten away any deer, foxes, opossum, bears, raccoons or any other critters that might be wandering on or close to the highway.
By the time I reached the end of Skyline Drive, the weather had cleared a bit where the road merged seamlessly into the Blue Ridge Parkway. This equally scenic road connects Shenandoah National Park in Virginia with Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina and Tennessee. Like Skyline Drive, it hugs the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains.
I remained on the parkway for about 50 more miles to Route 60. There I went east to Lynchburg, Virginia, where I stopped for the night. After 625 miles, my first day on the road was over, and I felt great.
Finally, the sun.
Early on day two, my ride started in the rain when I headed back to the Blue Ridge and continued south. However, within a few hours, the clouds broke, the sun came out and I could really begin to appreciate this scenic wonder.
In addition to the beautiful views, this is a great motorcycle road built for touring and enjoyable driving. The surface is smooth and the constant-radius bends and sweepers present few man-made surprises while adding to the pleasure of the ride. But, of course, you can’t drop your guard. During my first trip along the Blue Ridge, my riding buddy hit a patch of oil in a turn and lost it.
Luckily, other than a case of road rash, he wasn’t hurt too badly and the motorcycle wound up with only scratched paint and a bent mirror bracket. However, 25 years later, the image of him and his bike skidding across the road kept me wary.
I was particularly lucky on this portion of the trip because I did not encounter much traffic. The parkway is a two-lane road with many twists and turns. Passing zones and long straightaways are limited. During the height of tourist season, streams of slow moving cars — many pulling trailers — clog the route and make rapid travel impossible.
I had an uncle who told me proudly that he never drove his Cadillac faster than 30 miles per hour during his trip along the entire length of the Blue Ridge Parkway. Could you imagine being stuck behind this guy in his land barge on a narrow, winding mountain road?
Whatever…
Other features that make this a great ride is that you can jump off at most any point to visit interesting towns along the way, or you can sample some of the twisty mountain roads throughout the region that make motorcycle riding such a thrill.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
I continued to the end of the parkway and entered Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina. Dense stands of evergreen and hardwood trees cover these mountains, which lie bathed in an almost perpetual haze that rolls and undulates through deep green valleys.
I extend the enjoyment of this portion of my trip for a few more miles by linking up with Newfoundland Gap Road (US 441) and heading west across the park to Gatlinburg, Tennessee. That’s where I packed it in for the night.
Whether you are traveling north or south, try cruising through the Blue Ridge Mountains.
You’ll soon see why it’s one of the best rides, anywhere.